Travel
Greece
Give
Greece
a
chance
The
Observer
,
Sunday
29
May
2011
Thessaloniki
,
Greece's
second
city
,
has
spent
centuries
being
____________________
,
bombed
and
built
again
.
Our
writer
brings
the
colourful
and
____________________
metropolis
up
to
date
I
want
to
tell
you
a
____________________
.
You
don't
have
to
believe
it
.
I
didn't
at
first
,
and
it
happened
to
me
.
It
was
years
ago
in
Istanbul
,
at
the
end
of
a
long
evening
down
by
the
water
at
Besiktas
,
when
we
had
all
become
as
____________________
as
the
waters
of
the
Bosphorus
at
that
hour
.
I
was
____________________
for
my
bed
,
but
the
tide
of
the
night
was
running
towards
an
iskembe
joint
,
and
I
could
already
taste
the
____________________
vinegar
of
the
tripe
soup
on
the
air
.
I
pleaded
____________________
?
a
godawful
early
start
for
Salonica
?
when
a
young
guy
at
the
edge
of
the
group
touched
my
arm
.
"
If
you
are
going
to
Salonica
,
you
must
eat
the
borek
,
"
he
said
,
and
began
to
write
down
____________________
to
the
best
bougatsatsidiko
in
the
city
.
He
had
never
been
to
Thessaloniki
himself
,
but
his
grandfather
had
been
____________________
there
.
____________________
his
grandmother
,
who
came
from
Hania
,
with
all
the
Cretan
____________________
that
entails
,
had
to
admit
that
Salonicans
made
the
best
borek
/
bougatsa
on
the
planet
?
the
lightest
,
____________________
filo
,
just
greasy
enough
to
cut
the
____________________
kick
of
the
young
mizithra
cheese
flecked
with
oregano
and
mint
.
He
handed
me
a
____________________
with
a
line
____________________
across
it
to
show
the
sea
,
a
fortress
on
a
hill
,
a
hamam
with
three
domes
,
and
between
them
the
Turkish
names
of
some
streets
.
